DAY 17 3 JUNE 2012

Las Herrerias to Samos 41km

I had the most delicious dinner last night, A tureen of chicken and spinach soup (I got three bowls from the tureen) with three big chunks of bread, steak and chips, an ice cream, a coffee and a bottle of wine… 10€!! The steak was probably about 150g and bashed to paper thin so that it virtually covered the plate, and the chips were anemic but I really didn’t care, hot food again, the only thing I will say is that there was no veg, need veg.

Up and out by ten past six this morning, but it was a slow start (the red wine???). The guide reads that from Las Herrerias we will climb 600m in ten klicks, er mistake, 600m in a klick more like, that really was a hard climb, that just seemed to go on and on. I am embarrassed to say that a man easy in his 70′s scampered past me like a demented mountain goat while I puffed and wheezed my way up. From the photos you can see that as always it was well worth it but I think that was the hardest day yet, before the climb was gentle and long but not this, that is it for the hills now though, all down hill to the Compostela.

Everything is wet in Galicia, and the sound of dripping water is always audible. Dry stone walls with bracken and wild flowers growing from them. Shiny black slate roofs/rooves with moss an inch thick on the older ones. I love it here, we nearly bought a house here a few years back. I passed one house that is literally in the middle of nowhere, not even a road to it (how they built is is one thing, but how would you move in??). There is a fast flowing river at the end of the land. I had a long head in the clouds moment about that one, having a refugio and serving food just from the garden, light opera or classical music playing continuously, and anyone that brought a piece of rubbish from the Camino would get a free coffee and that sort of stuff. (Rubbish is a big bug for me, how people can just throw their coke cans and water bottles in the hedgerow is beyond me, but even tissues, I know they break down quick but it still makes the Camino look horrible until they do). Hmmm.

So it looks like I arrive in Santiago on Wednesday, I have decided not to go on to Finisterre as all that I wanted there was to watch the sun set over the ocean (for the first time in ages, I can’t remember the last time). But I figure something THAT good needs to be shared, so I am hoping that soon Vanessa and I can come up and walk those last 80 klicks together and raise a glass (or three) when we get there.

Buen Camino x

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